My original plan to fly from Bangkok to Rio de Janeiro was foiled because of a Brazilian visa issue, so I decided to fly to South America via Buenos Aires, Argentina, instead. Typically, before I arrive in a new country or city, I'll do a little online reading ahead of time, watch a movie set in the city I'm traveling to, or maybe listen to some advice from a podcast. However, I'm not the type to create a list of 15 must-see tourist attractions. I like for my experience of a city to unfold naturally.
I think one of the best ways to understand a city is to reach out to your network, the people you already know. Some of the best advice I've ever received has come from people who live in, or have lived in, the city I was visiting. What recommendations could be better than those from a local or someone who gets nostalgic about a place they used to live? Social media makes this extremely easy, and you'll be surprised by the places your third cousin, work colleague, or high school sweetheart has lived.
I was lucky enough to tap into a connection from my previous job back home. Here are some of his recommendations. If you're reading this, Mark, I appreciate the pro tips! Your love for Buenos Aires made my experience there that much more enjoyable.
Buenos Aires Travel Story and Photo Journal
Pictured above is the neighborhood of San Telmo. It's the oldest barrio in Buenos Aires. It's filled with cafés, antique markets, parrillas, tango shows, and plenty of art. To me, it's the heartbeat of the city and a great place for travelers to understand instantly what Buenos Aires is all about. If you happen to go, Hotel Bolívar is a great place to stay. It has character and stories for days, and it's cheap, with rooms around $12 to $20 USD per night. If you're looking for a nightcap, hit up The Gibraltar. It has tasty food, stiff drinks, and an atmosphere you can't beat. Big shout-out to Tom! Since it's a traditional British pub, you'll find expats, locals, and bartenders who speak English or will work with you on your español.
Also in San Telmo is this little gem of a parrilla, or grilled-meat restaurant. It's said that you can cut your steak with a spoon. I'll second that.
Beef is incredibly delicious and inexpensive in this town. The cuts of steak are a little different from traditional U.S. cuts, so do a little research before you visit a parrilla.
Maté. It's a slightly caffeinated, grassy, earthy-tasting herbal drink that's always sipped in a social setting among friends, family, and travelers. This was my first go at it.
Empanadas. A cheap, go-to meal for locals and travelers alike.
The Thinker, situated at Congressional Plaza. It's one of 12 copies in the world.
Eva Perón. She came from humble beginnings, and when she died, it's said that she had more power and influence in Argentina than her husband, who was president.
The beautiful, European-influenced Avenida Presidente Roque Sáenz Peña.
Pope Francis' barber.
Plaza de Mayo, with Casa Rosada in the background.
Teatro Colón. It's one of the most beautiful man-made structures I've ever been in.
Teatro Colón. This picture was taken during a tour. We were allowed to sit and listen to the orchestra practice for an upcoming opera. It's supposed to be one of the top acoustic buildings in the world. Luciano Pavarotti said, "Its acoustics are perfect! Imagine what this signifies for the singer: if one sings something bad, one notices immediately." Ask about tickets for a show. The opera may not be in town, but they hold regular local shows. They're less formal, and the tickets are very inexpensive. I actually got tickets for a Sunday show for free!
Pictured above is Cementerio de la Recoleta. You wouldn't think a cemetery would be a must-do, but the different types of mausoleums range from incredibly expensive to neglected. It's such an interesting place to spend an afternoon. Eva Perón is also buried here.
Buenos Aires has a history of revolutionaries and protesters. Many people came out to Plaza de Mayo to show their displeasure with President Obama's first visit to Argentina. The visit was controversial because it came on the 40th anniversary of the March 24, 1976, military coup that the United States initially supported. Resentment still lingered over the tens of thousands of people who disappeared or were killed under the military dictatorship. (@usatoday.com) Note: The building to the right is where Bishop Francis, now Pope Francis, held Mass on Sundays.
Located on the famous Avenida 9 de Julio, the Obelisco de Buenos Aires has often been used as a political prop or to raise awareness of certain issues. In 2005, it wore a giant pink condom for World AIDS Day. However, on the day I took this picture, you could see the sign "40 Years of Justice." What you can't see are the words on the other two sides of the obelisk: "Memory and Truth." Altogether, it reads, "40 years," while asking for memory, truth, and justice.
I was determined to go to a tango show, but then I realized that you could find street performers in just about every neighborhood in Buenos Aires. It's fun to sit and watch people who are so passionate about their craft.
The locks along the Río Dique. It's just a short walk east of San Telmo.
One of my favorite things to do while traveling in a large city is to check out its urban parks. I believe I found this charming group of trees on my way to Palermo. Palermo is roomier and much more modern than San Telmo. It has great restaurants and a hip nightlife.
Another import from Italy, Fernet-Branca may be the most popular alcoholic drink in Buenos Aires. Picture credit: lifeandthyme.com.
My new favorite type of wine: Malbec.
Want a fútbol game? You can find one on weeknights after work or on weekends just about everywhere.